Dovrefjell Road Trip – Driving the E6 Across Musk Ox Country
The drive over Dovrefjell is short – only about 31 kilometers from Dombås to Hjerkinn. But few mountains have a more special place in Norwegian culture. This is the mountain of trolls, where Peer Gynt met the Mountain King, and the home of Grieg’s famous music. It is also the only place in Norway where wild musk ox still roam.
Most people race across Dovrefjell on their way north or south. The E6 is wide and easy, and in half an hour you are over. But slow down, and the mountain opens up: light green moss as far as you can see, old lodges by the road, trolls in the stories – and somewhere out there, the musk ox.
Don’t make that mistake. We have driven Dovrefjell several times, both by car and by motorhome, and it is always a good experience.
Quick Facts: Dovrefjell (E6)
- Route: E6, Dombås to Hjerkinn
- Distance: About 31 kilometers (19 miles) across the mountain
- Highest point: About 1,025 meters above sea level
- Driving time: Around 30 minutes non-stop – plan for 2–3 hours with Snøhetta Viewpoint
- Season: Open all year (occasional closures in winter storms)
- Road: Wide asphalt road, good standard all year
- Suitable for: All vehicles, including large motorhomes and caravans
- Toll: No
ESSENTIAL STOPS ON DOVREFJELL
- Dombås: The last town with shops before the mountain. A good lunch stop.
- The open plateau: Mountains covered in light green moss in summer, wide views and room to breathe.
- Rullesteinen rest area: A bird-watching tower with views across the landscape.
- Fokstugu Fjellstue and Dovregubbens Hall: Mountain lodges by the road, for a meal, a walk or an overnight stay.
- Furuhaugli (Dovrefjell Lodge): Cabins and motorhome spots right in the middle of the mountain.
- Hjerkinn: Mountain hotel, horses and the starting point for Snøhetta Viewpoint.
- Snøhetta Viewpoint: A short, easy walk to an award-winning pavilion with views towards Snøhetta.
There are also several rest areas across the mountain, so take your time.
Dombås: Starting Point for the Dovrefjell Crossing
Coming north on the E6 through Gudbrandsdalen, Dombås is where the mountain crossing begins. It is the last town with shops before the plateau, so this is the place to fill up, buy food and stretch your legs.
Dombås is also known for its trolls – you will find them around the village.
We often stop at the bakery in Dombås to buy skolebrød – a Norwegian sweet bun filled with vanilla custard and topped with icing and coconut. Yum!
From Dombås, you can also turn west on the E136 towards Åndalsnes and Trollstigen.
Crossing the Plateau: Moss, Mountains and Musk Ox
Soon after Dombås, the trees thin out and you are up on the bare mountain. The road runs across a wide plateau covered in light green moss in summer – simply beautiful, with views of mountains in every direction.
These are the mountains where the musk ox live. Dovrefjell is the only place in Norway where wild musk ox still roam. They are large, prehistoric-looking animals – and they can be dangerous if you get too close.
We have looked for them every time we drive here, but have never seen one. The sheep, on the other hand, always show up.
Musk ox are shy animals, so you need a bit of luck. If you really want to see them, you can join a guided musk ox safari – or a moose safari – in the area. Both must be booked in advance.
Rest Areas and Mountain Lodges Along the Way
The drive may be short, but there are plenty of places to stop.
At Rullesteinen rest area, a viewing tower has been built for bird watching. Bring binoculars – with a bit of luck, you might spot a moose too.
Several mountain lodges lie along the road, and they make good starting points for walks, a bite to eat or an overnight stay. Two of them are Fokstugu Fjellstue and Dovregubbens Hall.
By Dovregubbens Hall there is an old stone bridge. Maybe that’s where the troll is hiding?
A story from the mountains
Dovregubbens Hall – Where Peer Gynt Met the Trolls
Dovrefjell is more than a mountain crossing. It is also the setting for one of the most famous scenes in Norwegian culture.
In Henrik Ibsen’s play Peer Gynt from 1867, Peer wanders into the mountains of Dovre. Here he is captured by trolls and taken to the hall of their king, Dovregubben – the Mountain King. The trolls live by a simple motto: “Troll, to yourself be enough.” Ibsen meant it as satire, a sharp look at people who only care about themselves and their own.
Ibsen found much of his inspiration in the Norwegian folk tales collected by Asbjørnsen and Moe. In these old stories, Dovrefjell was a wild and mysterious place, home to trolls and other supernatural creatures.
When the play was put on stage at Christiania Theatre in Oslo, Ibsen asked Edvard Grieg to write the music. One of the pieces became In the Hall of the Mountain King – and you have almost certainly heard it. It starts low and sneaky, like trolls creeping around Peer, then grows faster and louder until it ends in pure chaos. Today it is one of the best-known pieces of classical music in the world, used in everything from films to commercials.
I’m not really into classical music, but this is the music playing in my head every time I drive over Dovrefjell. To me, it is the sound of Dovre. Listen to In the Hall of the Mountain King on YouTube – and maybe play it in the car on your way across.
The story still lives on in the region. Every summer, Peer Gynt is performed outdoors by Lake Gålåvatnet in Gudbrandsdalen.
So next time you pass Dovregubbens Hall by the E6, you’ll know where the name comes from.
A taste of Norwegian folktales
Norwegians love pancakes – and one of our oldest folktales is about a pancake that rolls away! The Runaway Pancake is my retelling of the classic story, made for reading aloud with funny voices and plenty of giggles.
Find it on Amazon →Hjerkinn: Mountain Hotel and Horses
At Hjerkinn, the road reaches the northern end of the plateau. We have stayed overnight at Hjerkinn Fjellhotell, in an apartment with a wonderful view towards Dovrefjell and Rondane.
There is also a horse center here, and you can go horse riding in the mountains. We took an evening walk to look at the horses and the landscape around the hotel.
Hjerkinn works well both as a stopover on a road trip and as a base for walks in the mountains.
Snøhetta Viewpoint: The Best Stop on Dovrefjell
If you only make one stop on Dovrefjell, make it this one. Look for the sign to Viewpoint Snøhetta at the Hjerkinn junction.
The walk is only 1.5 kilometers each way, on an easy gravel path with about 130 meters of climbing. Along the way, stone slabs tell the story of Dovre’s last 10,000 years. At the top, an award-winning pavilion with panoramic windows looks out towards Snøhetta and the national park.
We started early in the morning and had the place almost to ourselves.
Don’t miss
Snøhetta Viewpoint – Epic Views with No Sweat
An easy 1.5 km walk from the Hjerkinn junction to an award-winning pavilion with views towards Snøhetta. Go early, and you might have it all to yourself.
Read the full guide
Driving Dovrefjell in a Campervan or Motorhome
Dovrefjell is one of the easiest mountain crossings in Norway to drive with a motorhome. The E6 is wide, with gentle curves and good asphalt, and there are no restrictions on vehicle length.
We have stayed overnight with our motorhome at Furuhaugli (now called Dovrefjell Lodge), right in the middle of the mountain. From there, we cycled to an old summer farm settlement on the north side of the E6. The area has many old farm roads and trails for short or longer trips on foot or by bike. A lovely trip – but bring insect repellent. The mosquitoes and horseflies were out in force that day.
There are also good places for wild camping in the area, and several campsites nearby.
Practical Tips for Your Dovrefjell Road Trip
- Season: The E6 is open all year, but winter storms can close the road for short periods. Check road status at vegvesen.no.
- Best time: Summer for Snøhetta Viewpoint and walks. Autumn for colors on the plateau.
- Fuel and shopping: Fill up and buy food in Dombås.
- Overnight: Hjerkinn Fjellhotell, Dovrefjell Lodge (former Furuhaugli) and Domaas Gård Hyttetun og Caravancamp in Dombås, a newer motorhome park with a view over the valley. Read my guide to wild camping in Norway for free options.
- Wildlife: Keep at least 200 meters away from musk ox if you spot one.
- Mobile coverage: Normalt god dekning.
Useful Links
- Road status: vegvesen.no/trafikk
- Weather: yr.no
Combine Dovrefjell with These Road Trips
Frequently Asked Questions About Dovrefjell
How long is the drive over Dovrefjell?
The mountain section of the E6 from Dombås to Hjerkinn is about 31 km and takes around 30 minutes without stops.
Is the E6 over Dovrefjell open in winter?
Yes, the E6 is open all year. In bad winter weather, the road can close for short periods or only be open with convoy driving.
Can you see musk ox from the road?
Sometimes, but it takes luck. Your best chance is on a walk in the mountains, or on a guided musk ox safari.
Is Dovrefjell good for motorhomes?
Yes. The E6 is a wide main road with no length restrictions, and there are several campsites along the way.
Is Dovrefjell Worth a Stop?
Dovrefjell is a short drive, but it is worth more than just passing through. Stop in Dombås for a skolebrød, take the walk to Snøhetta Viewpoint, and enjoy the green moss and the wide mountains. Maybe you will be lucky and see a musk ox – we are still waiting for ours.
Dovrefjell also has a special place in Norwegian history. When Norway’s constitution was written at Eidsvoll in 1814, the men gathered there swore to stand together “united and loyal until Dovre falls” – Enige og tro til Dovre faller. Ever since, the mountain has been a symbol of something old, wild and unshakeable. More than 200 years later, Dovre is still standing – and it is still one of our favorite mountains to cross.
Warm greetings from the road – Anne Bente
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