Hemsedal Mountain Road - a scenic road trip in Norway

The Hemsedal Mountain Road is one of Norway’s most pleasant mountain crossings – calm, scenic, and rich in cultural heritage. Connecting Gol in Hallingdal with Borgund near Lærdal, this route takes you through lush valleys, past waterfalls and mountain farms, across an open high plateau, and down into one of Norway’s most historic valleys.

It’s not the wildest fjellovergang in Norway – and that’s exactly its charm.
Hemsedalsfjellet is easy to drive, open all year, and quietly beautiful from start to finish.

*Fantastic views across the Hemsedal valley from Hemsedal Bygdetun.*

Road Facts – Hemsedal Mountain Road (Rv52)

Length: ~90 km
Start / End: Gol ↔ Borlaug (near Lærdal)
Highest point: ~1,130 m
Season: Open year-round
Toll: No
Road standard: Wide, paved, and well maintained – suitable for all vehicles

*Driving across Hemsedalsfjellet in May, we still encountered snow in the mountains.*

The Drive – From Valley to High Mountain

The journey begins in the gentle landscape of Hallingdal, where forests, farms, and rivers set a calm tone. As you head west from Gol, the valley slowly tightens and rises into Hemsedal – a lively mountain village framed by peaks over 1,500 meters.

Beyond Hemsedal, the road climbs steadily. Trees thin out, the air sharpens, and the landscape opens into a broad mountain plateau. Small lakes, grazing sheep, and wide skies dominate the scenery here.

On the western side, the descent from Borlaug leads you into a narrower, greener valley. The road follows the river down toward Borgund, where history takes center stage at the end of the journey.

*The drive between Gol and Hemsedal follows a green, forested valley.*

*Arriving in Hemsedal, the landscape shifts to high mountains — with waterfalls cascading down the slopes.*

Scenic Stops Along Hemsedal Mountain Road (East → West)

Hemsedal Bygdetun – Valley Viewpoint & Open-Air Museum

A short detour above the village takes you to Hemsedal Bygdetun, an open-air museum made up of a collection of traditional wooden houses from the region. The historic buildings are gathered in a small cultural landscape that shows how people lived and worked in Hemsedal in earlier times.

From the hillside around the bygdetun, you also get one of the best views of the valley below — with rivers winding through green fields and mountains rising on both sides. It’s a place where culture and scenery meet, and a rewarding stop even if you just wander the area for a short while.

Note: To reach the bygdetun, you’ll need to walk up a relatively steep hill from the parking area. It’s not a long walk, but it can be a bit of a workout — and don’t be surprised if you meet a few sheep along the way. We certainly did, and it only added to the charm.

*Hemsedal Bygdetun is a short detour well worth making.*

Hemsedal Village

Hemsedal is a classic Norwegian mountain town. In winter it’s lively and energetic; in summer it slows down and becomes a perfect stop for lunch, coffee, or a short walk along the river. Cafés, small shops, and a relaxed atmosphere make it a natural pause before heading into the high mountains.

Hemsedal – A Top Alpine Destination

Hemsedal is also known as one of Norway’s most popular alpine destinations and is often referred to as the Scandinavian Alps. In winter, the valley is filled with skiers and snowboarders, while summer brings hiking and biking in the same mountain terrain. Even when you’re just passing through, the lively atmosphere of this year-round mountain resort is easy to notice.

In winter, Hemsedal turns into a true skiing paradise — something I’ve tested myself and highly recommend.

Rjukandefossen Waterfall

One of the highlights of the route, Rjukandefossen is just a short walk from the road. A well-marked path leads you to a narrow suspension bridge above the roaring double waterfall, where you can really feel the power of the river beneath your feet.

On sunny days, mist and rainbows often appear — and if you’re feeling brave, step out onto the bridge and take it all in. It’s one of those simple stops that turns into a lasting road trip memory.

Rjukandefossen is a short detour worth the walk — and crossing the narrow bridge above the roaring water definitely made my stomach flutter.

The Mountain Crossing – Hemsedalsfjellet

Above the treeline, the landscape becomes wide and open. The road curves gently across the plateau, with several pull-offs where you can stop for photos, a picnic, or simply to enjoy the silence. This is mountain driving at its calmest – spacious, peaceful, and endlessly scenic.

Hemsedalsfjellet shifts from white to green through spring, offering a beautiful and majestic mountain landscape.

Borlaug Bygdetun

As you descend into the western valley, Borlaug appears as a small cluster of farms and historic buildings. The local bygdetun (heritage farm) offers insight into traditional life in Lærdal, surrounded by fertile slopes and flowing water.

Borgund Stave Church

Built around 1180, Borgund Stave Church is the best-preserved stave church in the country. Dark timber walls, dragon-head carvings, and layered roofs make it one of Norway’s most iconic historic sites. A modern visitor center nearby explains the symbolism and history behind these unique wooden churches.

Two Old Roads Near Borgund

Near Borgund, you’ll come across two very different old roads. One is a narrow, paved road that follows the Lærdalselva toward Lærdal. It’s still drivable, but tight in places, so take it slow — especially with a larger vehicle.

The other is the much older Kongevegen (The Old King’s Road) , a historic route from the time of horses and carts. This one is for walking only and easy to spot if you take a short stroll near Borgund. Together, they give a nice glimpse into how travel through this valley has changed over time.

*A detour from the main road takes you down along the Lærdalselva and traces of the old King’s Road.*

Hemsedalsfjellet by Campervan or Motorhome

Hemsedalsfjellet (Rv52) is well suited for campervans and motorhomes. The road is wide, paved, and easy to drive, with a gentle climb and an open mountain plateau. There are several safe places to pull over for short breaks and views.
Note: The old road at Borgund (Vindhellavegen) is narrow and challenging and not suitable for campervans or motorhomes — park near Borgund and explore it on foot instead.

There are many places to stop with a campervan on Hemsedalsfjellet — our blue camper has enjoyed plenty of breaks here.

When to Drive Hemsedal Mountain Road

Summer: Long days, green valleys, and perfect conditions for stops and picnics
Autumn: Golden colors, crisp air, and fewer travelers
Winter: Snow-covered mountains and clear light – the road is well maintained, but weather can change quickly

Weather in the Norwegian mountains can change quickly, but even on less-than-perfect days, the drive is still a great experience.

Combine It With

Aurlandsfjellet – the famous Snow Road (summer only)
Hardangervidda – Norway’s largest plateau (Rv7)
Sognefjellet – the highest mountain pass in Northern Europe

Personal Tip

Take this road slowly. Some of the best road trip moments in Norway come from unplanned stops — simply pulling over to enjoy the view or explore a little further. Hemsedalsfjellet is all about calm landscapes, gentle flow, and a road that never feels rushed.

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Happy road tripping in Norway,
Anne Bente

Hemsedal Mountain Road – A Scenic Drive Between Valleys and History

Road Facts – Hemsedal Mountain Road (Rv52)

The Drive – From Valley to High Mountain

Scenic Stops Along Hemsedal Mountain Road (East → West)